La maison de la Corée

Moci is the Korean version of ramie, a natural fabric that is airy and absorbent. Its seemingly
coarse yet actually gentle and light texture makes it ideal for wearing during Korea's hot, humid
summers. There is an elegance in the way the fabric does not cling to the body yet allows its
outline to be vaguely discerned, which goes well with the flowing silhouette of traditional Korean
dress and understated feminine grace of Korean women. Jeopo, a type of moci fabric, has been
described as "dragonfly wings" for its especially delicate woven finish.

These qualities have led to a resurgence in moci's popularity as a fabric with a light, fresh and
delicate look and subtle sensuality. It is particularly suited for older people whose mature dignity
complements the delicacy of the moci. Despite the fabric's wrinkle-prone texture and high
maintenance, people find the refined gentility of moci clothing quite appealing. Accordingly, moci
clothing is typically worn on special occasions as formal wear.

The distinctive qualities of moci can be achieved only through weaving methods that require a high
level of skill and attention-on a handloom, just like in the old days. Despite the fact that refined
cotton fabrics from long ago such as myeongju and mumyeong have given way to synthetic and
machine-made materials, moci is still cherished as Korea's traditional fabric.

It is said that the moci plant was discovered during the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C.-A.D. 660) on Mt.
Geonjisan, in what is now the town of Jihyeon-ri, Chungcheongnam-do province, long recognized as
the home of moci products. An old man who was looking for medicinal herbs noticed a tall plant in
the woods and thought that it could be used to weave cloth, so he started cultivating it. In the
Three Kingdoms period (1st century B.C.-A.D. 7th century), the people of Baekje developed
exceptional weaving skills, with their renown reaching as far as Japan. And as the techniques were
further advanced during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), baekjeo, white moci, came to be used for
clothing for royalty, high-ranking officials and even commoners. Baekjeo was known to neighboring
countries as a specialty of Goryeo, and was imported by Tang China.

During the Joseon Dynasty, the excessive demand for moci created a social problem. Consequently,
in 1523, the 17th year of the reign of King Jungjong (r. 1506-1544), a royal decree was imposed
that limited the thread count of moci fabric according to social class. This measure resulted in a
drastic reduction in moci production, and along with the degeneration of weaving technology,
high-quality moci almost disappeared. However, the moci tradition had been preserved in the
so-called Seven Jeopo Capitals-Hansan, Seosan, Hongsan, Bi-in, Imsan, Jeogsan and Nampo-and its
popularity endured Japanese colonial rule (1910-1945) as well. But with the emergence of new
materials following Korea's liberation from Japan, demand for moci steadily diminished. In the
1980s, natural fabrics made a fashion comeback around the world, making moci popular again.

Moci is made from the inner skin of the moci plant, or Boehmeria, which belongs to the Urticaceae
family and flourishes in warm, humid regions, similar to the ramie plant grown in tropical regions.
In Korea, it is grown in the Chungcheong-do, Jeolla-do, and Gyeongsang-do provinces where the
climate and environment are conducive to its cultivation. The area around the town of Hansan in
Seocheon, the southernmost tip of Chungcheongnam-do, boasts ideal conditions for producing the
finest, high-quality moci, such that fine Hansan moci has long distinguished itself as a regional
specialty.

Boehmeria is a perennial plant whose roots grow new sprouts in spring. It can survive 15-20 years
in one spot and can be transplanted every 4 or 5 years for breeding. Vulnerable to cold
temperatures, after enduring the winter the plant grows sprouts in the spring that reach about
two meters in height. When the leaves around the bottom of the stem start to dry, the stalks can
be cut down. A first crop can be harvested at the end of June, a second from the middle to the end
of August, and a third from the middle to the end of October. The second crop usually yields the
best quality material for weaving. Around November, after the third crop has been harvested and
winter is about to start, the fields are covered with hay or straw mats to keep the ground warm.
New stalks will start to sprout again the following April.

The inner skin of the stalk is used for weaving fabric. The bark is peeled off, leaving the soft but
durable inner skin. This skin is repeatedly soaked in water and dried in the sun. It becomes what is
called tae-moci, a simple form of moci that can be woven into cloth. After soaking in water, the
tae-moci is torn into thin strips, which are then spun into long threads used for weaving. The moci
plant from Hansan produces such fine fabric because it can be torn into very thin strips, and then
spun into threads using a special technique, ideal for producing a smooth, tight weave of superior
quality.

Moci requires painstaking care not only in its production, from growing the plant to weaving, but
also in maintaining the condition of completed garments. Moci clothing needs to be washed
carefully by hand to keep the weave from loosening, and after each washing, it needs to be treated
with starch just the same as when the clothing was first sewn. The starched clothing is pounded
with clubs on a fulling block to smooth the starch on the fabric and to straighten any strands that
have been twisted out of place in the course of washing and starching. When the fulling is
completed, the clothing is placed on a wooden roller to smooth out any wrinkles and to finish the
time-consuming, delicate process.

At the end of summer, moci garments need to be washed thoroughly to get rid of any trace of
starch before being carefully packed away. And the next summer, the clothing needs to again be
treated and starched as described earlier.

Moci clothing requires delicate sewing for a stylish look. The different parts of the garment
should be cut and sewn together following the weave of the fabric. If the weave has not been
straightened out through starching and pounding, the sewing will be very difficult, resulting in a
badly tailored finish. The elegance of a moci hanbok depends on how neatly the collar line wraps
around the neck; a collar pulled too far back ruins the look of the hanbok jeogori, or jacket. The
closure ribbon should be a bit narrower and shorter than conventional hanbok, while the skirt
should reveal the tips of the pointed gomushin (rubber shoes) or peoseon (traditional padded
socks). It is also recommended that the skirt be tailored without the shoulder straps and to
adjust the closure of the wrap skirt over the chest in order to retain the natural silhouette of
the moci hanbok. An undershirt should always be worn with a moci blouse, and a slip under the
skirt. Another thing to remember when wearing moci clothing is that it easily wrinkles; especially
when sitting down, it is advisable to make sure the rear part of the skirt is not folded on the seat
while the skirt flaps should spread slightly outward to avoid sitting on them, which also enhances
the graceful silhouette of the garment.

Moci is recognized for its distinctive whiteness, which is acquired by bleaching the yellow hue
from the natural moci. This was how moci was worn traditionally, although occasionally a reddish
yellow tone was added by using gardenia seeds soaked in warm water, or an indigo dye was applied
to create a light blue hue to make the clothing appear cooler in summer. White has always been
popular among Koreans, long known as the "people in white," while white summer clothing has a
visually cooling appearance. But in order to better cater to the diverse tastes and color fashions
of modern consumers, adopting a full spectrum of colors for moci is absolutely necessary and long
over due. A traditional natural fabric such as moci takes well to natural dyes. However, the
biggest problem with natural dyes is that the color is not permanent. But since moci must be hand
washed, starched and pressed each time it is worn, more color or even a brand new color can be
added with each washing. It is inconvenient compared to permanent chemical dyes, but on the other
hand, applying different colors to the same garment for various occasions can be an appealing
option.

Kim Byeong-Mee
Koreana, Summer 2001